The evening starts with some great fun. And of course I'm the spoilsport because I'm giving it away now - unless someone wants to go to Mario Pattis' restaurant Feine Kost for the cooking star lessons in the next few days and would rather be surprised there first - then please turn your eyes to the second paragraph right now and read on there! The evening begins with an exuberant ballet by Simona and Mario Pattis, who dance around the table. In between, they go to their serving trolley, pick up one of the waiting tubes with nozzles, dance to the guest and - I almost wrote: leave a blob, like the lovebirds. But only almost, because in reality they bend down to the table, laughing heartily along with the stunned guests at the table, and unerringly drape a new flavor on the parchment printed with the MP logo, which had been lying unnoticed on the table until then. So Mario Pattis applies an avocado cream, to which Simona Pattis quickly adds Parmesan crumble. This is followed by a truffle cream, a tomato jam, parsley oil, a spoonful of balsamic vinegar and some beet, as well as (very traditionally on the plate) sourdough bread for dipping by Elias Boulanger. If the plates (all genuine Meissen!) are hanging on the wall for decoration, you have to serve (almost) directly on the table. "Dip individually or across the board, preferably in that order!", Mario Pattis recommended and disappeared into his kitchen with a "have fun and enjoy your evening!"
This surprising greeting from the kitchen is not on the menu list, but if you like, you can find and order caviar with blini and/or oysters in advance in addition to the menu. This is of course a great way to start the evening, and it also gives you an excuse to enjoy an aperitif by the glass. The oyster trilogy (€18) is the choice of the hour, firstly because it's just the right amount and secondly because it combines three flavors (pure salt, passion fruit and cucumber wasabi). With a full-bodied schlock of Wackerbarth's Cuvée Traditionelle brut (for traditional Saxon drinkers) or a non-alcoholic Sparkling Apple-Juniper from Estonia, which is at least just as much fun.
Mario Pattis describes the menu as one in three courses "Anticipation - Great Joy - Joyful, Sweet & Fruity", but of course there's more to it than that. In addition to the secret greeting from the kitchen, there is also an official amuse-bouche that is a real treat for the palate. "Our potato soup" is a house classic, in which a (lukewarm) potato foam meets the slight spiciness of an ice cream gnocchi and where a waxy egg in combination with (plenty of) truffles triggers the first indulgence in pleasant pleasure.
Ice is always present on the colorful courses - just as contrasting flavors always provide a surprise. The char ceviche was bathed in a fluffy and slightly spicy curry lemongrass foam, a caramelized mini banana with chilli jam (as well as avocado mousse on the ceviche and paprika ice cream on top) not only provided color, but also fruity spiciness - but please: subtle and not overpowering. As expected, Shashlik 2.0 was not an ordinary meat skewer, but a combination of fine seafood (including scallops, prawns and cuttlefish) with pork fat, which was served with finely chopped tomatoes and a (green, much better than black) olive tapenade. We're still looking forward to it and are only two-thirds of the way through - but that's always the case with pattis, and basically we're already looking forward to this well-measured opulence in advance. Incidentally, the drinks are very individual: Alexander Stange, who provided us with wines (for each course) and non-alcoholic options that evening, is much more than just a bottle pusher. He knows what to say about each wine (or the alternative), responds charmingly to questions and takes his time. The food is then served by Mr. and Mrs. Pattis, and not without comment either, but in a clever way that increases respect for the work behind the scenes in advance (even if that is not the intention). All in all, great hosts - and being friendly, smiling and knowledgeable doesn't really cost any more!
The third course from the trio of starters bridged the gap to the meat-heavy main course and also introduced the chapter which, depending on your point of view, ended with Trau Dich! (recommendation from the GRIPS theater from the 1970s) or "Wat de Buur nich kennt, dat frett he nich" (much older North German folk wisdom). So baked calf's head: sounds unusual to most people, but it is well baked in panko and tastes almost like a good pot roast without the sauce. And duck liver - full of fat! And at least it's not goose stuffing, although with quince and freshly toasted brioche it's close in taste. It always depends on what you work into it before you put it through the finest sieve into pâté form... But if you are a self-confessed traveler through gourmandie, the only thing missing is a suitable sweet wine. Oh, what a fine coincidence: a 2018 Tokaj Szamarodni, Oremus brought the necessary bit of sweetness and appropriate acidity to keep the throat from sticking as an in-between wine...
The main course required even more joy of discovery, which was only very fragmentarily described with saddle of lamb (and all side dishes) etcetera etcetera, because Mario Pattis presented a variety never seen (let alone eaten) before: Rack of lamb, lamb carrée, lamb kidney, baked lamb sweetbreads and lamb tongue. A little taboulé and an oriental-flavored jus (with curry and cinnamon) completed the plate. It was a challenge to discover white spots on the taste map and tick them off: tastes good (to me) - doesn't taste good (to me). But these are personal (pre)loves: it was all done perfectly, and a final "sensational!" slipped out during the conversation... The accompanying red wine - a Valpolicella Ripasso - proved to be the perfect complement and was pleasingly delicate - despite the 14% Alc, it wasn't clumsy and certainly not sweet.
We weren't actually hungry by now, but experience shows that you're never too full for a Pattis dessert - even if the variation includes things that aren't suitable for a slimming diet. But with a fluffy touch of foam, there's an eye-catching excuse that can't be overlooked: it'll all be easy!
Menu
- Amuses Bouches "Our potato soup"
- Ceviche of char | purslane | curry lemongrass foam
- Shashlik 2.0
- Seafood | pork bacon | tomato | olive tapenade
- Baked veal head | duck liver | quince | brioche
- Back of lamb | taboulé | avocado | pimentos | oriental spice jus
- Dessert inspiration
Wine pairing
- 2024 Scheurebe, G.A. Heinrich, Württemberg
- 2022 Riesling Löhrer Berg, Anette Closheim, Nahe
- 2018 Tokaj Szamarodni, Oremus, Hungary
- 2021 Valpolicella Ripasso, Ca la Bionda, Italy
- Vino Dolce Angelica, Bulgarini, Italy
Info
- Menu € 89 | incl. wine pairing € 138
Info
- Menu € 89 | incl. wine pairing € 138
- . wine accompaniment 138 €
Restaurant Feine Kost - Mario Pattis
Wallgässchen 4
01097 Dresden
Tel.: +49 351 65 86 38 76
mariopattis.de
[Visited on February 24, 2026]
