Why did I go to a monastery in Austria for five days? Coincidences are events that happen to you for a reason. It was the same here.
"Norbert" echoed through our restaurant. But very slowly and almost from the beginning. Exactly two years ago, we were able to get Norbert Daut, a former Arvato Bertelsmann manager, interested in our software. He visited us in Dresden, then we met twice halfway in Erfurt for a strategy meeting and in November 2023 it was time for a return visit to his home in Marienfeld.
We had an extended walk that took us past the training grounds of various top European soccer clubs and national teams. As we walked towards dinner, we passed the Marienfeld monastery. Norbert told me that there used to be a real monk here, whom he knew very well, who now lives in a monastery in Austria.
I'm not baptized myself, but I'm very curious about everything there is in this world and beyond. I told Norbert that a stay in a monastery had been on my bucket list for some time and whether he could put me in touch with Father Gottfried. "No problem," he said. I thanked him in advance.
In the Klosterpforte restaurant, we were eating our main course and engrossed in a conversation about the price increases in the restaurant trade when suddenly a loud and clear voice called out: "Nooorbert, what are you doing here?". It was Father Gottfried, who was in Marienfeld for the weekend because he had to pick up some things. I knew I could rely on Norbert, but that it would happen so quickly. Oh well. Just a coincidence.
That's why the timing was perfect
The years 2022 and 2023 were very exciting years for me, both personally and professionally. There were major upheavals in my life. The separation from my wife and the associated loss of my children, who I can now unfortunately only see every two weeks at the weekend. Small successes and major upheavals in my professional life. All of this had to be processed and, above all, I wanted to get some real peace and quiet. To switch off and recharge my batteries for 2024 so that, at the age of 44, I can make a completely new start with momentum, without emotional baggage and with a clear plan. A monastery in the Tyrolean Alps is certainly the right place for this.
The journey to Sankt Georgenberg
I set off from Dresden in my car, a 20-year-old Toyota Corolla, in the direction of Almanach. The drive was very pleasant, as there wasn't much going on on the highway between the years. Since I like challenges, I set myself the goal of getting the car's average fuel consumption below six liters. I can't yet say whether that worked out, as I hadn't filled up the tank at the time of writing this paragraph.
The monastery itself is not accessible by car. For guests, it ends at the Weng parking lot. You can then hike the last few kilometers on the Way of St. James. You can see the monastery in the mountains from time to time. An impressive wooden bridge, which somehow reminded me of Harry Potter, opens the entrance to the monastery.
The arrival at the Sankt Georgenberg monastery
When I decided to stay at the monastery, I was driven first and foremost by curiosity. I wanted to get to know something new, gather inspiration, broaden my horizons and find some peace and quiet. Due to my principle that expectations are the basis for disappointment, I basically started without any fixed ideas. Of course I looked at a few pictures and reviews on Google beforehand, which were all promising, but I didn't know the authors' backgrounds and perspectives. But it shouldn't be that bad ;-)
The ascent to the monastery wasn't particularly strenuous, but my body had reached a certain operating temperature, which meant that a considerable layer of frost had accumulated on my black cap due to the temperature. It must have been around 3.20 pm when I entered the courtyard. A white-haired man in a black hoodie and black trousers was sitting on a bench enjoying the sun.
He introduced himself as Matthias and that he was also a guest. We quickly struck up a conversation. He explained to me that the monks would be at the service until around 3.45 p.m. and that someone would then take care of it. He organized a coffee for me to tide me over - that set the mood. I didn't have a key yet, but I felt like I had arrived.
Father Gottfried greeted me later, gave me the key to my room and showed me around the monastery's guest house. He explained the procedures here and gave me a brief outline of the history of the place of pilgrimage. The Benedictine monastery of Sankt Georgenberg has belonged to the Benedictine congregation of Sankt Ottilien in Upper Bavaria since 1967.
Everyday life with the monks and guests
The monks live a ritualized daily routine and offer their guests the opportunity to participate in it voluntarily. The day begins with morning prayers at 6 am. The monks then have breakfast. Guests have the opportunity to have breakfast between 7.30 and 8.30 am. Those who have taken part in the prayer can also eat directly with the monks.
At 12 noon, the midday prayer takes place. Afterwards, monks and guests eat together in silence. Silence means that no one speaks during the meal. One reason for the voluntary silence is the excellent food. A 3-course menu prepared by a former 2-toque chef. Another reason is that the table reading is on at the same time - currently the audiobook of Gregor Gysi's biography.
Baked goods and coffee or tea can be enjoyed between 2.30 and 4.30 pm. Before dinner, which begins at around 6.45 pm, the monks go to evening prayer, vespers, at 6 pm.
After dinner, the monks and guests gather for recreation and conversation. If there is an occasion, the monks also serve a liqueur or wine - and if you want, you can always find one ;-)
At 8 pm, the night prayer, the Compline, takes place. Afterwards, the monks go into silence.
Good connection to God and the internet
The monks have a fixed line to God, for all other connections they use Elon Musk's Starlink satellite network. And anyone who has ever watched the satellites move through the night sky in a chain might think of a rosary. This would also establish a connection to the church ;-)
The monastery dog Plotinus
Plotin, a young Bernese mountain dog, lives in the monastery together with the monks. It is named after an important philosopher of late antiquity. Plotinus lived from around 204/5 to 270 AD and is regarded as the main representative and founder of Neoplatonism, a philosophical movement that is strongly oriented towards the teachings of Plato. Plotinus' philosophy had a profound influence on subsequent Western mysticism and metaphysics and had a significant impact on Christian, Jewish and Islamic thought in medieval philosophy.
Plotin the dog is an adventurer who likes to secretly leave the monastery with the participants after the service and walk towards the valley on his own. However, Father Gottfried is usually already waiting there and always knows where he is thanks to a GPS transmitter. From time to time, he also walks to the town hall and is given treats by the ladies and gentlemen there.
The monastery of Sankt Georgenberg
The Sankt Georgenberg monastery, which sits majestically in the Karwendel mountains, looks back on an eventful history characterized by catastrophes, artistic mastery and spiritual significance. Originally founded in the early Middle Ages, the monastery suffered severe setbacks in the 14th and 15th centuries due to plague epidemics and fires. Particularly tragic was the year 1348/49, when a large part of the monastic community fell victim to the bubonic plague. Over the course of time, the monastery was destroyed by fire and rebuilt several times, most recently in the 17th century when it was moved to the Inn Valley after a fire.
The architecture and art of the Sankt Georgenberg monastery are impressive. The oldest parts show Romanesque influences with characteristic round arches, later Gothic extensions were added. Baroque renovations were carried out in later centuries, which can be seen in the lavish frescoes and ornate woodwork. The monastery library houses valuable manuscripts and a collection of works of art that reflect the monastery's deep roots in tradition and history.
St. Georgenberg still serves as a place of pilgrimage today and is known for its night pilgrimages in the summer months. These traditionally take place on 13 May each year and attract many visitors. The monastery can only be reached on foot, with the "High Bridge" providing spectacular access. The hike through the Wolfsklamm gorge is a popular route that visitors appreciate for its spiritual and scenic beauty.
The monastery is not only a place of deep spirituality and one of the oldest pilgrimage sites in Tyrol, but also an impressive example of monastic architecture and art. Every element of the monastery, from the frescoes to the sculptural representations, tells a story of religious fervor and artistic mastery. The daily life of the monks is characterized by rituals, prayers and a deep connection to spirituality, devoting themselves to both physical work and spiritual devotion.
The Sankt Georgenberg monastery moved its community back to its original location, St. Georgenberg, in 2019. The previously used monastery building in the valley, Fiecht Abbey, was sold to entrepreneur Christoph Swarovski in 2018. He plans to establish various cultural and educational facilities there. Today, the monks of the monastery oversee a traditional pilgrimage on St. Georgenberg and welcome pilgrims and guests.
The extensive renovation of the St. Georgenberg monastery, carried out between 2018 and 2019, was realized according to the plans of architect Benedikt Gratl. The aim of this renovation was to preserve the historical heritage of the monastery while meeting modern requirements. In the course of this renovation, a high-quality guest house was also created, which welcomes pilgrims and guests to the monastery in an appealing and contemporary environment.
My summary of the monastery stay
I arrived with no expectations but looking forward to a new experience and was not disappointed. The view of the mountains, the air, the peace and quiet and, above all, the heartfelt friendliness of all the people I met here really inspired me. A wonderful and energizing end to the year after a very moving and life-changing 2023.
PS: Incidentally, my fuel consumption was 6.1 liters. I just missed the target, but very acceptable for a Toyota that is over 20 years old. I wish everyone a good start to the new year.
