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Brasserie Bateau (Dresden): Dining out in the river

Theater barge
Grilled poulpe, chimichurri, harissa at Brasserie Bateau (Image: Ulrich van Stipriaan)
Von: Ulrich van Stipriaan
French brasserie on the Theaterkahn in Dresden: maritime flair, clear menus and careful wine accompaniment from Crémant to Sancerre.

Having one in the barge is one of the less distinguished sayings about one's own or (better still, pointing the finger at another person) another person's pitiable condition. Things are different in Dresden, where the connection between "in the barge" and "enjoyment" has a very positive connotation. This is because culture and cuisine come together on the theater barge on the Elbe at the Augustus Bridge - with the Dresdner Brettl on one side and the Brasserie Bateau on the other. We went to the brasserie.

A brasserie in France is usually a little more formal than a bistro, but less stiff than a restaurant. In principle, it's a place where you're in good hands for casual eating and drinking. Clemens Lutz, who turned the rather dark predecessor Kahnaletto with its Italian cuisine into a cheerful, bright interior with Mediterranean blue and white, is (together with his wife Marlene Buder-Lutz) the inventor of the Kochsternstunden - of course he is now also taking part in it and is (not really surprised) realizing that the aim of bringing sales to the restaurant trade in bleak times is working. Without revealing specific figures here, they make the owner happy - and not just him, as we often talk to the people in charge about this kind of thing during our visits.

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Brasserie Bateau has been open since April 2025 and now has a well-established team. The cuisine is of course French-influenced, even more so on the regular menu (with classics such as bouillabaisse à la Brasserie Bateau, moules-frites or coq au vin de Bourgogne) than in the five courses on the cooking star menu: although they were (brand, baby, brand!) French, they would also pass with German terms under the general label "delicious Mediterranean". Except that no one would ever write it that way because of the unpopular word "lecker"... We don't do that either and are very happy to use the word leckerhaft (delicious) given to us by the gastrosopher Carl Friedrich von Rumohr instead.

There's a double start to the evening. The first came pleasantly quickly with everything you need to get off to a good start: water from a gurgling carafe, a glass of crémant from Limoux, bread and butter (more precisely: Café de Paris). You can enjoy yourself and see whether you are seaworthy (or on a river: riverworthy?). Because the rushing water of the Elbe has already confused one or two guests. The advantage of the evening visit: it gets dark at some point, so it doesn't matter. But before it got dark, Katherina Robitzki served us a gratinated oyster (cheerfully and expertly throughout the evening): the oyster was still almost raw under a layer of Café de Paris, a wonderful taste experience.

Salad. Sounds unspectacular, even if you add mango, beet, goat's cheese and walnuts. So take a kitchen in which the beet is pickled, in which the walnuts are caramelized, in which a delicately fruity dressing combines the components. The goat's cheese was matured to perfection (and, despite all the reservations of an old "please-only-from-the-cow-cheese", tasty - how good to have local suppliers who know their stuff!) Which wine can flatter the cheese? The Petit Chablis from Jean Durup! Bold thesis: this charming little Burgundy can do almost anything...

It's amazing what you can do wrong with a pulpo. But there are other ways! Boat smutje - sorry: chef - Philipp Onyskow has got the hang of it and sends a thoroughly tender, but also very flavorful grilled octopus arm with a few pointed tricks. Not only (but also!) in terms of color, the chimichuri on and harissa next to the octopus complement each other. This and four chips are hard to beat in terms of simplicity and reduction to the essentials - but they are great. You could drink a rosé from Provence with it or, with much more pleasure (because they are usually overpriced due to their hyped names), an alternative with the less exciting-sounding IGP Méditerranée origin. Le Ciel de Saintzur is such a rosé, elegantly pale (almost like a dark Pinot Gris!) and beautifully dry, but still easy to drink.

Sole for the main course! Unfortunately, it's not so common far from the coast, and when it is, it's often in a roll form unworthy of flatfish. The classic method of preparation - whether filleted or with (crispy) skin and bones - is Frisian and simple: fish, salt, butter. In principle, that's exactly what you could smell when the plates arrived at the table, which made the old Frisian in me salivate! In keeping with the French way of life on board the Marion (as the boat was called before it was converted into a theater and restaurant), the Müllerin came to us as a Mediterranean-style meunière: with sun-dried tomatoes, artichokes and fried capers for a little crunch, plus some triplets to round it off. Fish wants to swim! And a grilled sole is always happy when it does so a) in butter and b) in Sancerre. An iconic Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire provides fruit and fresh acidity for good drinking flow - not only the tongue is happy about the Sancerre in the glass.

The lemon tartlet then commented on the whole evening in its own way. Together with a Riesling Auslese from the famous Morstein vineyard, there was popcorn on top!

Menu

  • Auster au gratin
  • Salad
    Beetroot | Mango | Goat's cheese from Savoir Vivre - my French store from Dresden
  • Poulpe grilled
    Chimichurri | Harissa
  • Sole Meunière
    Artichokes | sun-dried tomatoes | capers | triplets mediterranean
  • Tarte au citron meringuée

Paired with drinks

  • Crémant Blanc Grand Cuvée 1531 Réserve
  • 2024 Petit Chablis, Jean Durup, AOP
  • 2024 Le Ciel de Saintzur Rosé, Provence
  • 2024 Sancerre, Domaine Blanc Reverdy, Loire
  • 2022 Riesling Auslese, Weingut Hischhof

Info

  • 4 courses 56 € | incl. beverage accompaniment, water &. drinks, water & espresso 85,50 €
  • 5 courses 74 € | incl. drinks, water & espresso 110 €

Brasserie Bateau
im Theaterkahn
Terrassenufer an der Augustusbrücke
01067 Dresden

Tel. +49 351 495 30 37
brasseriebateau.de

[Visited on March 11, 2026]

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Ulrich van Stipriaan
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Ulrich van Stipriaan

Ulrich van Stipriaan ist für die Inhalte selbst verantwortlich. Es gilt der Kodex der Plattform. Die Plattform prüft und behandelt Inhalte gemäß den gesetzlichen Vorgaben, insbesondere nach dem NetzDG.

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