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Marek Špalek: Gold medal instead of quantity-quantity-quantity

Vineyard
Marek Špalek with his gold-medal Pinot Gris (Image: Ulrich van Stipriaan)
From: Ulrich van Stipriaan
Family winery Vinařství Špalek in Moravia: biodynamic work on the Kravi Hora (Kuhberg), precise Rieslings, Stockinger barrels, 2024 Grand Or and export mainly to Saxony.

 

(Podcast in German)

Marek Špalek is one of the most prominent winemakers in South Moravia, who runs Vinařství Špalek (Špalek Winery) in Nový Šaldorf-Sedlešovice near Znojmo together with his family. Today, the family-run organic winery cultivates around 12 hectares of vineyards - exclusively on the famous Kravi Hora (Cow Hill) site, a south-east-facing vineyard at an altitude of up to 340 m with clay soil over granite bedrock. The estate's wines stand for precise, fresh and terroir-driven styles - in a region that was long characterized by quantity thinking under socialism.

The history of the winery actually began in the 1970s, when František Špalek (Marek's father) started growing wine. After the Velvet Revolution of 1989/90, many families got their land back - but not Marek's father, who was the youngest of seven children and was left empty-handed. Nevertheless, the brothers and their father took the plunge in 1992: initially they made wine from bought-in grapes, but the dream was to have their own vineyards. Marek and his brother had both studied viticulture and worked in state wineries; after reunification, they gained crucial experience in Austria, including nine years at the renowned Schlossgut Hardegg. There they not only learned about quality viticulture, but also how family businesses work - and they earned good money, which they invested in their own start.

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Own vineyards since 1987

The first vineyard of their own was planted in Kraví Hora in 1997. Today, ten grape varieties are grown on the 12 hectares - seven white and three red. The most important variety by far is Riesling (with around 2.5 hectares, it has the largest share), followed by Grüner Veltliner (Veltlínské zelené), Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris (Rulandské šedé), Gewürztraminer and red varieties such as Zweigelt (his most widely planted red grape) and Pinot Noir. Why so much Riesling? "Because climate change is also making itself felt here: hot vintages lead to less freshness and too much alcohol in Veltliner and Sauvignon. Riesling, on the other hand, is adaptable and retains its invigorating acidity!"

The winery has been certified organic since 2015 and biodynamic for around eight years. The Demeter preparations 500 horn manure and 501 horn silica are dynamized and applied (readable literature). Marek emphasizes that biodynamics helps noticeably - the grapes are healthier and more beautiful. In conversation, Marek admits that without a direct comparison (because they farm everything biodynamically), it is not possible to scientifically prove exactly why.

Steel and Stockinger wooden barrels in the cellar

In the cellar, the Špalek winery uses stainless steel for fruit-driven wines and Stockinger oak barrels (including four 2,000-liter barrels) for the more mature batches - with spontaneous fermentation for the wines in wood and pure yeasts for those in steel. No amphorae, no concrete. A prime example is the 2021 Rulandské šedé (Pinot Gris): 14% alcohol, but supple, with an Alsatian touch - bread, butter, honey, totally dry (0.1 g residual sugar). This wine won gold (Grand Or) at the 2024 Sélections Mondiales des Vins in Montreal and finished in the top 50 of the entire competition - the greatest success of the last 33 years. In addition to still wines, Špalek produces a sparkling wine (extra brut, traditional bottle fermentation, cuvée of Veltliner, Sauvignon and Riesling, approx. 2,500 bottles/year). The prices of the wines range from around €8 to €20 - "not cheap, not expensive". The winery has twice (2014 and 2024) been named the best small winery in the Czech Republic.

94% of the production remains in Germany; only around 6% is exported - mainly to Saxony. Gustav Müller has been his partner there for over ten years; the wines can be found in restaurants in Dresden, Pirna and Saxon Switzerland. Marek Špalek speaks excellent German - half of his mother is of Sudeten German origin, and he also studied German at a language school.

Info

Vinařství Špalek
Sklepní č.ev. 104
671 81 Nový Šaldorf-Sedlešovice-Znojmo 5
Czech Republic

Tel. +420 515 243 802
spalek.bio

[Taken on March 6, 2026 before the Bohemian-Moravian evening in the Old Masters restaurant]

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Ulrich van Stipriaan
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