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Gasthaus zum Anker (Wachau): With or without? No question: both are possible

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An almost forgotten classic at the Gasthaus zum Anker: Strindberg saddle of beef with potatoes and cabbage (Image: Ulrich van Stipriaan)
From: Ulrich van Stipriaan
At the Gasthof zum Anker (Wachau, Saxony), a four-course Chef's Star Hour menu was convincing: classic Strindberg saddle of beef, successful vegetarian alternatives and an Austrian beverage accompaniment with equally well thought-out non-alcoholic partners.

The distance from Dresden to Wachau is just over 16 km (as the crow flies), from the same point at Theaterplatz to Wachau about 321 km - also as the crow flies, of course. We'd rather drive to Wachau and have the drinks brought or (if you must) served to us from Wachau. This works quite well in the context of the Kochsternstunden, because in the Gasthof zum Anker (Wachau, Saxony), which only reopened last November, there is a four-course menu in which the drinks come from Austria - not only, but also from the Wachau. The fact that Conrad Schröpel, a native of Zittau who worked for 14 years in Vienna in a boutique hotel with its own (good!) wine bar - almost ten of them as manager of the establishment - is in charge of service rounds off the experience: a Wachau vacation, so to speak, all-encompassing.

In the kitchen is Robert Müller, whose partner Anja Sperling, has leased the inn (including a seven-room boutique hotel and event locations from vaulted cellar to ballroom). They both have gastronomic experience, the necessary composure and an optimistic view of the future - an attitude for which a special prize should almost be awarded! But as long as that doesn't exist, we concentrate on the food and drinks on the cooking star menu. There are two of us there on a Sunday lunchtime and we get to know the range of the audience at the Dorfgasthof - but the balancing act between spiced meat and steak au four on the one hand and a four-course menu with the option of ordering it completely vegetarian without any problems seems to work, as many tables are occupied. And by the way: the steak au four comes from straw-fed pigs, which indicates a quality mindset that goes beyond fine dining. Perhaps not a bad idea as a hiking stop...

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However, we are on the cooking star menu and like to take the opportunity to compare the fish & meat version with the veggie version for the starter. For the main course, however, none of us wanted to miss out on the Strindberg saddle of beef, which turned out to be a very good decision: you hardly ever see this classic of fine cuisine on menus anymore - when the great Alfred Walterspiel ("the German Escoffier", as the chairman of the "Verband der Serviermeister, Restaurant- und Hotelfachkräfte e.V.", Christiaan van Kuyen) created the dish at the beginning of the 1950s, there were far fewer dots and tweezers in the dishes (actually: there were neither-nor!). Robert Müller had the dish - how could that happen? - once as a staff meal during his training and was obviously permanently in love with it. And it is a long-lasting love that he passes on with this main course. Wonderfully old-fashioned, wonderfully delicious!

We asked Conrad Schröpel for information about drinks and actually tried both options: with and without alcohol. We think it's good that more and more restaurants are offering alcohol-free accompaniments and paying attention to food pairing. The same prices for both offers show that one and the other is a craft - and the comparative tasting confirmed the impression that we were dealing with equal partners for food. And because Schröpel is still very fond of Austria, he has also found wines & Co that are not necessarily known and therefore perhaps enjoyed twice as attentively.

When making the bold leap straight to the main course, however, neither the soup beforehand (strong consommé steaming with a mildly smoked, intensely flavored mushroom tartare) nor the starter should be forgotten. The version with skrei and black pudding was very strong, while the fish-free version with quail egg and beet was softer - but visually similar and tasty in both versions. The two plates next to each other also showed very nicely that vegetarian courses do not exist through the omission of fish or meat, but get their quality through the translation of the flavor idea.

Even though the menu portions were smaller than the individual orders: we were a little afraid of the dessert. After the Strindberg, we were no longer hungry, but we still had a craving. It was worth giving in, because the apple strudel was not as rich as we had feared - and together with the apple-shaped ice cream, there was even a hint of lightness on the plate at the end. For the first time, the flavor ideas for the accompanying drinks were very different, and it was exciting to taste: both are possible - both the slightly sparkling apple secco and the rare Grüner Veltliner ice wine with its residual sweetness of 160 g/l. How good that there were two of us and so we could enjoy twice as much...

Menu

  • Skrei
    Blood sausage | pea | apple
    OR
    Wachtelei
    Pea | beet | mustard
  • Mushroom consommé
    Smoked mushroom tartare | baked pea
  • Lime sorbet
    infused with cassis sparkling wine (plus. 6,50 €)
  • Back of beef Strindberg
    Potato | cabbage
    OR
    Celeriac Strindberg
    Potato | cabbage
  • Wachau apple strudel
    Vanilla | bay leaf

Aperitif accompaniment

Wine on top, non-alcoholic below

  • Aperitif: Wachauer Apfel Spritz | 7,90 €
    Wachauer Apfel Spritz non-alcoholic | 7,90 €
  • 2024 Grüner Veltliner Rossatz, Federspiel organic, Weingut Frischengruber, Wachau
    Null Bock - Zero Alcohol, Grüner Veltliner-Kräuter-Minztee, Weingut Schwarzböck, Weinviertel
  • 2024 Chardonnay Löss, Weingut Fritz, Wagram
    Riesling alkoholfrei, Weingut Mayer am Pfarrplatz, Vienna
  • 2021 Mephisto Bio, Zweigelt, Cabernet-Sauvignon, Merlot Weingut Christ, Vienna
    Embrizzo Traubenkombucha, hibiscus, rosehip, Weingut Graf Hardegg, Weinviertel
  • 2021 Grüner Veltliner, Eiswein, Weingut Nigl, Kremstal
    Jonagold Apfelsecco, Weingut Stift Klosterneuburg, Lower Austria

Info

  • 3-course (without consommé) 52 € | incl. beverage accompaniment Accompanied drinks €80
  • 4 courses €59 | incl. accompanied drinks €94

Gasthof zum Anker
Hauptstraße 52
01454 Wachau

Tel. +49 352 84879400
anker-wachau.de

[Visited on March 1, 2026]

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Ulrich van Stipriaan
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