The evening starts with some great fun. And of course I'm the spoilsport because I'm giving it away now - unless someone wants to go to Mario Pattis' restaurant Feine Kost for the cooking star lessons in the next few days and would rather be surprised there first - then please turn your eyes to the second paragraph right now and read on there! The evening begins with an exuberant ballet by Simona and Mario Pattis, who dance around the table. In between, they go to their serving trolley, pick up one of the waiting tubes with nozzles, dance to the guest and - I almost wrote: leave a blob, like the lovebirds. But only almost, because in reality they bend down to the table, laughing heartily along with the stunned guests at the table, and unerringly drape a new flavor on the parchment printed with the MP logo, which had been lying unnoticed on the table until then. So Mario Pattis applies an avocado cream, to which Simona Pattis quickly adds Parmesan crumble. This is followed by a truffle cream, a tomato jam, parsley oil, a spoonful of balsamic vinegar and some beet, as well as (very traditionally on the plate) sourdough bread for dipping by Elias Boulanger. If the plates (all genuine Meissen!) are hanging on the wall for decoration, you have to serve (almost) directly on the table. "Dip individually or across the board, preferably in that order!", Mario Pattis recommended and disappeared into his kitchen with a "have fun and enjoy your evening!"
Ice is always present on the colorful courses - just as contrasting flavors always provide a surprise. The char ceviche was bathed in a fluffy and slightly spicy curry lemongrass foam, a caramelized mini banana with chilli jam (as well as avocado mousse on the ceviche and paprika ice cream on top) not only provided color, but also fruity spiciness - but please: subtle and not overpowering. As expected, Shashlik 2.0 was not an ordinary meat skewer, but a combination of fine seafood (including scallops, prawns and cuttlefish) with pork fat, which was served with finely chopped tomatoes and a (green, much better than black) olive tapenade. We're still looking forward to it and are only two-thirds of the way through - but that's always the case with pattis, and basically we're already looking forward to this well-measured opulence in advance. Incidentally, the drinks are very individual: Alexander Stange, who provided us with wines (for each course) and non-alcoholic options that evening, is much more than just a bottle pusher. He knows what to say about each wine (or the alternative), responds charmingly to questions and takes his time. The food is then served by Mr. and Mrs. Pattis, and not without comment either, but in a clever way that increases respect for the work behind the scenes in advance (even if that is not the intention). All in all, great hosts - and being friendly, smiling and knowledgeable doesn't really cost any more!
The third course from the trio of starters bridged the gap to the meat-heavy main course and also introduced the chapter which, depending on your point of view, ended with Trau Dich! (recommendation from the GRIPS theater from the 1970s) or "Wat de Buur nich kennt, dat frett he nich" (much older North German folk wisdom). So baked calf's head: sounds unusual to most people, but it is well baked in panko and tastes almost like a good pot roast without the sauce. And duck liver - full of fat! And at least it's not goose stuffing, although with quince and freshly toasted brioche it's close in taste. It always depends on what you work into it before you put it through the finest sieve into pâté form... But if you are a self-confessed traveler through gourmandie, the only thing missing is a suitable sweet wine. Oh, what a fine coincidence: a 2018 Tokaj Szamarodni, Oremus brought the necessary bit of sweetness and appropriate acidity to keep the throat from sticking as an in-between wine...
