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Blind tasting with Gerd Kastenmeier: Clarity from black glasses

Black glasses
Wine flows from the covered bottle into the black glass. (Image: Ulrich van Stipriaan)
From: Ulrich van Stipriaan
Blind tasting with black glasses at Kastenmeier's wine and champagne bar in Dresden: wine tasting without a label, where the focus is on taste, nose and aha moments.

"You eat with your eyes", as the saying goes. You have to imagine that figuratively! But that would only be a distraction, because today we're going to talk about the fact that the eye also drinks. Only in a figurative sense, of course, but a very strong one: wine was served from black glasses! The test laboratory: the Kastenmeier wine and champagne bar in the Taschenbergpalais. The test subjects: Journalists and influencers. The tasting was led by Gerd Kastenmeier, who, despite his Bavarian beer origins (his father was a brewer!), has spent decades learning about the world of wine and also produces his own wines for his restaurant (and the wine bar and catering, of course) with winemaker friends.

"Many people feel overwhelmed by the variety of wines on the market and simply buy according to the label," explained Gerd Kastenmeier. "Or they choose a particularly expensive wine - it has to be good. It doesn't have to be! With our blind tasting, we want to provide guidance so that everyone can find out what they like. And when tasting from black glasses, you concentrate on the taste, nothing distracts you." From this point of view, the black glasses definitely provide more clarity through their concealment.

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While normal wine glasses - especially if they are the good ones - look very chic and usually come across as filigree, the black glasses are rather plain and more like the standardized tasting glass. For the first round, bar manager Finn Merbt had already poured the glasses behind the bar - as expected, nothing was visible when they were at the table. Neither from the side nor from above (ok: if you looked inside, you could see that there was something in the glass - but not: what was in the glass). That should be the whole point: less trained wine drinkers can't even tell the difference between red and white wine in black glasses. At best, the serving temperature could give a clue, but if the host is mean, the whites are a little too warm and the reds a little too cold - so everything around 14-16 °C. But neither Finn nor Gerd are that mean: although they had made the bottles opaque with aluminum foil, the white wines were cool and the red wines were at the right temperature.

So we still had the first glass in front of us and desperately unknowing faces. What might that be? The smell! The colleague thought she recognized "peach" and at least didn't get any objections from her colleagues. The wine-experienced Kastenmeier therefore gives a tip that couldn't be clearer: "I smell petrol!" The vinonovices shudder: Diesel? Here in the glass? No: in the nose. In Kastenmeier's, the others didn't smell it so well. But why do you need a nose when you know that Rieslings like to smell like this! Of course, there was one (22er Kalkfels from the Krebs winery in the Palatinate). The nose and taste of wine number two was clearer, as the Sauvignon Blanc from the Rings brothers (also from the Palatinate) is not a loud wine, but a typical representative of its type. And so it went on - basically single-varietal white wines, but then a two-varietal cuvée (and then with particularly natural ageing), with one or two red wines thrown in for good measure. A fun thing, you get to chat and learn something too.

Exciting? In any case. Educational? When someone like Gerd Kastenmeier talks: of course. Something we'd like to do again tomorrow? At Radio Yerevan, the answer would certainly be yes in principle, but preferably from normal glasses. The rest - wine selection, moderation, learning and fun curve - can stay. And the two platters of cheese and San Daniele ham on top too...

Info

The blind tasting in "Kastenmeier's wine and champagne bar" starts with six wines at a price of 39 euros. The blind tasting can be booked by two to 15 people - as a beginner or advanced taster, as an introduction to the world of wines or as an excursion to special wine-growing regions - the wine selection and the date are arranged individually.

Kastenmeiers Wein- und Champagnerbar
Taschenberg 3
01067 Dresden

Tel. +49 351 48484801
www.kastenmeiers.de

[Visited on May 12, 2026]

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Ulrich van Stipriaan
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