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Tulips and the sea

Tulip field
From: Ulrich van Stipriaan
Tulip fields, windmills and North Sea beaches in Holland: a trip away from the postcard clichés with green harvested fields, coastal towns and honest impressions.

The thing with the endless fields of tulips and the pretty windmill in the background, all set against a bright blue sky of course: I think the Dutch invented that at some point. The tulip fields were finite when we visited, the windmill was somewhere else and had no wings at all. And the sky? Mostly Dutch gray instead of Prussian blue.

Our travel guide had promised a road through the fields, with nothing but tulip fields to the left and right. On the left, however, there were mostly houses, sometimes even nice ones. There were also houses on the right, and only now and again did we see a hint of a tulip field. But flowers my ass! Here - outside of touristy places like Keukenhof, which charges a decent entrance fee - they don't do tourism at all, but horticulture and agriculture. And the flowers of the tulips are cut off to improve bulb propagation. In other words, many fields are green.

This is the way it is in North and South Holland, unless you happen to be there in the week or two when the postcard photographers set up their kit walking mill with a huge blue background cloth in the landscape to take their photos.

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We had left our mill at home and made do with what nature had to offer. It was less than expected and more than nothing. Not far from Bergen, we found the first field with red, purple, yellow and white tulips and, for good measure, grape hyacinths in a beautiful blue contrasting color. The photographers had even left a mill at the far end of the horizon, and the backdrop of blue sky clouds was still there too.

Of course, the Dutch have arranged other things for the people there for the time outside the tulip season. Bergen aan Zee is one of the classic Dutch seaside resorts, with miles of sandy beach and dunes (for good reason: no trespassing) and restaurants for the masses. We found SB Noord to be a very nice place, with friendly staff and (if you can say that just from spinking at the next table) quite decent salads. You sit outside, but are protected from the cold wind by glass walls. In my home region of East Frisia, the continuation of the Dutch coast to the north-east, this also existed decades ago. We called these practical facilities incubators...

The place itself is quickly passed through because it's not to our taste: too touristy. We later discovered that it could be worse. Zandvoort was enough for us after driving through it, Noordwijk aan Zee on our first visit after walking through it for half an hour. The fact that several million beach holidaymakers a year apparently see things differently rather reinforced our quickly formed opinion - and yes, we were there again later for a longer period of time. Nothing is set in stone, especially not hasty opinions...

So we treated ourselves to a tulip field a little further inland. Houses all around, of course, but we already knew that. But they had also left a few red spots in the flower-headed part, making it a beautiful textbook picture. We had just finished snapping our tulips when a minibus drove up and unloaded a manageable load of wild tourists. The distribution of roles was very simple: women and children, screaming, into the field, the men with outstretched arms holding the digital camera at the edge of the field to take pictures. The bus driver stood unmoved in front of his bus and thought to himself. He made us, who were getting into a hire car with a Dutch license plate, his allies with a slight, clear glance.

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Ulrich van Stipriaan
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Ulrich van Stipriaan

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