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Eduard Bernhart, South Tyrol Wine Consortium: You can’t go wrong with a good drink!

Wine Tasting
Mag Vernatsch: Eduard Bernhart (Photo: Ulrich van Stipriaan)
From: Ulrich van Stipriaan
Eduard Bernhart explains South Tyrol’s wine diversity, single-vineyard wines, and the importance of elevation and soil—all within the context of tradition, change, and climate change.

A half-hectare vineyard at an elevation of 1,000 meters isn’t exactly what you’d expect from the director of the South Tyrol Wine Consortium. Eduard Bernhart took on the project nonetheless. In 2016, he purchased a suitable plot of land in the Upper Vinschgau Valley; in 2018, he planted Riesling and Pinot Noir—“perhaps a naive or idealistic decision,” he jokes. The first vintage was produced in 2021, and the experiment… Today, the experiment is, above all, one thing for him: fun. For the 181st episode of “Auf ein Glas,” I actually met Eduard Bernhart not in his role as a winemaker, but as an ambassador for South Tyrolean wine, caught between a masterclass and a “High Wine” event at Dresden’s Bülow Palais. Since August 2018, Eduard Bernhart has been the director of the South Tyrol Wine Consortium. But the fact that, in addition to communications, marketing, and advocacy, he also grows his own grapes and makes wine is not just a side hobby for him. It grounds him—and gives him a firsthand look at the work of winemakers. “You can’t lead me astray all that easily,” he says. He doesn’t just know how to talk about wine, but also what it means to plant a vineyard and make wine.

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Small—but Diverse

That fits a wine region that’s hard to pin down. South Tyrol is small but geologically and climatically extremely diverse. Today, there are about 5,800 hectares of vineyards. The vineyards lie at altitudes ranging from about 200 to 1,000 meters, primarily on the slopes; in many places, the valley floors are reserved for apple orchards. More than 20 grape varieties are authorized under the DOC designation. The idea behind this is not to grow a single variety as widely as possible, but to plant the right variety in the right place.

The mountains are more than just a backdrop. Downslope winds ensure air circulation at night, while also creating significant temperature differences between day and night. This helps preserve the freshness of the grapes despite warm days. The fact that viticulture is now practiced even at high altitudes is a development of the past decades—and, in light of climate change, an interesting prospect. Eduard Bernhart definitely sees potential in this. But vine training and cultural practices in the vineyard also offer opportunities to adapt to changing conditions.

Things get even more exciting underground. South Tyrol lies at the intersection of different geological formations. Around Bolzano lies the reddish Bolzano quartz porphyry, an ancient volcanic rock. Not far away is the Mendel with its dolomite rocks, while the Vinschgau Valley is dominated by Eastern Alpine shale formations. The last Ice Age, 20,000 years ago, shaped today’s valleys and left behind, among other things, moraine soils on the slopes. For the winemaker, this diversity means that each vineyard must be considered on its own. Altitude, soil, and exposure—south, north, east, or west—all influence the resulting wine.


Eduard Bernhart at the master class

86 single-vineyard sites push quality to the limit

It is precisely these differences that will be more prominently displayed on the label in the future. Since 2024, single-vineyard wines have been permitted in South Tyrol. 86 individual vineyards were designated for this purpose. The process took more than a decade: historical land registries were analyzed, winemakers, producers, and oenologists were consulted, and geological profiles were created. The system was submitted to the Italian Ministry in 2019 and finally approved in 2024.

A single-vineyard designation is subject to stricter rules. Yields must be reduced by up to 25 percent compared to the standard DOC maximum yield, and a maximum of five approved grape varieties is permitted per vineyard site. Single-vineyard wines have been given their own logo: a grape in a drop of wine. Already in the first year, six percent of the total production was designated as single-vineyard wine; by 2025, that figure had risen to eight percent. The system is deliberately not intended to be final: In the coming years, it will become clear how well it is accepted and whether further developments are warranted.

Wineries press 70% of the wines

The fact that South Tyrol can be organized on such a small scale at all is due to its unusual operational structure. The vineyard area is divided among numerous small parcels; on average, a winegrower cultivates about one hectare. Many operations are mixed-crop farms that grow apples or other crops in addition to grapes. The twelve winery cooperatives produce the largest share of the wine—about 70 percent. About 25 percent comes from wineries, and about five percent from so-called independent winegrowers. These farmers cultivate their own land, do not purchase grapes from others, and handle cultivation, winemaking, and marketing themselves.

Wine-growing cooperatives have a long tradition in South Tyrol. The first was founded in 1893 in Andrian; at one point, there were 33. Through mergers, the number has since dropped to twelve. Nevertheless, they remain highly significant—and their commitment to quality has evolved alongside the region as a whole. Eduard Bernhart sees the diversity of structures as a particular advantage: cooperatives, private wineries, and independent winegrowers compete with one another and can spur each other on.

This development has fundamentally changed South Tyrol’s wine landscape. When people think of South Tyrolean wine today, they often think of white wine first. That wasn’t always the case. Just a few decades ago, the region was primarily known as a land of red wine and Vernatsch. Large quantities of the indigenous variety (known in Italian as Schiava) were exported to Austria, Switzerland, and Germany. Today, the vineyard areas are significantly smaller, and at the same time, the style of many wines has changed.

Eduard Bernhart, however, does not want Vernatsch to be seen as a relic of a bygone wine world. On the contrary: He considers it a distinctly contemporary wine—light, elegant, easy to drink, and particularly impressive when served chilled. Added to this is its versatility. Vernatsch pairs just as well with a plate of speck as it does with dumplings and Schlutzkrapfen, but also with chicken or grilled fish. And it can age. Older vintages show that the variety has significantly more aging potential than its widespread image would suggest.

South Tyrol: From a Red Wine Region to a White Wine Region

The shift toward white wine was neither purely a marketing strategy nor the sole decision of individual winemakers. As the Italian market changed, demand for white wines grew, while winemakers realigned their vineyards accordingly. Today, about 65 percent of South Tyrolean wines are white. The Consortium itself has only existed since 2007 and did not trigger this development, but rather accompanied it. Eduard Bernhart’s task, therefore, is less about reducing South Tyrol to a single message. Rather, he aims to hold together and advance the many different parts that ultimately make up the whole. According to its own figures, the consortium covers 99 percent of production. It is financed, among other things, by membership dues based on each member’s production volume; in addition, it offers services such as consulting and legal advice.

But Eduard Bernhart doesn’t view wine merely as a product anyway. Wine is a cultural asset, he says, but also a social experience. “No artificial intelligence can replace eating, drinking, and tasting together!” His wish for South Tyrol in ten years is accordingly succinct: “South Tyrol is a guarantee. You can only drink well here.” Actually, just as it already is…


P.S.: “It goes on beyond the horizon,” sang Udo Lindenberg. And so does the podcast. So Episode 181 has an ending—and an encore. With some basics and a wine from Saxony…

Konsortium Südtirol Wein

Crispistraße 15

39100 Bolzano

Tel. +39 0471 978 528

suedtirolwein.com

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Ulrich van Stipriaan
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Ulrich van Stipriaan

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