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Dinner with Rothschild wines in Radebeul: A reason to celebrate and feel good

Wine Tasting
Sommelier Jörg Philipp presented the Rothschild wines at Matthias Gräfe's bistro (Photo: Ulrich van Stipriaan)
From: Ulrich van Stipriaan
Radebeul-Ost: A themed evening featuring Rothschild wines, hosted by Jörg Philipp, combines enjoyment, conversation, and an atmosphere reminiscent of old-fashioned neighborhood pubs.

Of course, sometimes you go out to eat just to fill up. But going out is something else entirely. Sure, you want to eat—and maybe have a drink—but what really makes it special is the whole experience. Depending on the place and occasion, that can be something truly special, like a multi-course meal crafted by culinary artists (m/f/d). It could also be an evening featuring special wines you’ve always wanted to try—but have never had the chance to taste in that particular combination, for example. All of this usually happens (depending on the situation) alone, as a couple, or with one or two friends—in other words, in some kind of group setting. But there’s also a completely different option, where you go out (alone, as a couple, or with one or two friends) to enjoy a mix of all these things, with something extra on top that money can’t buy: atmosphere.

There used to be more places and occasions like this® than there are today. The “Weetschaff op d’r Eck”—the corner bar—has been celebrated many times in the local dialect by the Cologne band Bläck Föös. These neighborhood bars were, of course, places to meet up for a drink (and a hearty meal)—but they were also places where, at their best, people came together who wouldn’t necessarily have crossed paths otherwise: young and old, rich and poor, bosses and employees (well, to be honest back then: employees, even if they were women). The pub as a place of social balance—with special consideration for “who knows what else”—is surely the subject of a thesis or two at one university or another.

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Complaining doesn’t help: the number of truly good neighborhood pubs has declined, and there are many reasons for this. But the need for togetherness is, of course, still there—talking to AI all the time isn’t productive in the long run, and it’s certainly not entertaining. How wonderful that there are still places here and there where doing things together and casual conversation are possible. These can be clubs or volunteer activities, but when combined with the factor of enjoyment, restaurants of all kinds still offer such opportunities even today. On one of those summer evenings perfect for a vacation—not too hot, not too cool too early—a special themed evening took place on the main street in Radebeul-Ost, which was pleasantly quiet that evening. It was an occasion for joy and a sense of well-being—certainly in terms of the program, since there were wines from the Rothschild estate—in other words, ones that most people don’t get to drink every day. But even more so, the people themselves contributed to the success—and not just those from whom you’d expect it as a matter of course (or at least hope for it), namely the team working both in front of and behind the scenes at a restaurant. Rather, the guests also play a significant role in making an evening a success. And when some already know each other and others are just getting to know one another, yet still chat with one another across tables and seats, it’s almost like the old days at the neighborhood bar.

Of course, the host must set the right atmosphere. Matthias Gräfe and his team pulled out all the stops to make this happen. For instance, he offered a high-quality event (wines from Baron Edmond de Rothschild). Some might imagine nothing less than an elaborate menu to go with it. But at Wein & fein, we had: our dinner. Just like at the two previous events in this casual series of presentations by top wineries (Vega Sicilia in January, Frescobaldi in April), which go by the simple title “Sunday Wine”—because the events always take place on Sunday evenings. But no one asks if they’re missing an episode of *Polizeiruf 110*, and even the team shows up in high spirits on their day off to the “crime scene” on Hauptstraße 😉


Jörg Philipp (Photo: Ulrich van Stipriaan)

Another key requirement is excellent moderation. A strong network helps here—and, incidentally, also demonstrates the extent to which wine knowledge from Dresden has made its way out into the world: on the first evening, Thomas Sommer, one of the top sommeliers in the German-speaking world, presented the wines. He was born in Dresden and trained at the Bülow-Residenz. This time, Jörg Philipp served as the wine presenter—in 1996, he was the first sommelier at the Kempinski Taschenbergpalais restaurant (he was followed, by the way, by Frédéric Fourré). Jörg Philipp manages to convey expert knowledge in a very charming way; he maintains a wonderfully detached perspective on the extreme fluctuations in the wine business—and even though the wines featured that evening were anything but bargains, they’re still not meant for collectors (who buy them like paintings—sometimes at prices that are no longer really justifiable—to store them somewhere cool and dark), but for connoisseurs.

Selecting wines for a tasting like this is a task in itself, because as the great sommelier Gerhard Retter always emphasizes: “Drinking educates, binge-drinking makes you stupid!” So, to set the mood, we were given a bit of background information—after all, who knows off the top of their head the true size (in hectares) of Bordeaux? With over 100,000 ha (significantly reduced in recent years; previously just under 120,000 ha), this single region has as much vineyard area as all of Germany (2025: 101,965 ha). There are various subregions—some on the left and some on the right banks of the Garonne and Dordogne rivers—and one in between: Entre-Deux-Mers, between the seas. White wine is grown there, and that’s what we were served as a welcome drink. A wine that people there on the coast love to drink with oysters—that unconditional, all-around slurping, so to speak.


Wines from the Rothschild Evening (Photo: Ulrich van Stipriaan)

While there are certainly good (and some very good) white wines from Bordeaux, the reds are really the stars! In keeping with Retter’s maxim, a selection of these was offered for both learning and enjoyment. Wines from three estates vied for favor and to delight the palate, and with the appellations Listrac-Médoc (Château Clarke), Moulis-en-Médoc (Château Malmaison), and Puisseguin-Saint-Émilion (Château des Laurets), both the left and right banks were represented. When it comes to grape varieties, the French take a more relaxed approach than, let’s say, the Saxons. All six red wines were either 100% Merlot or blends of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc (by comparison: 83 grape varieties are registered in Saxony, and most wines are single-varietal). What’s missing? The vintages: 2016, 2018, 2019, 2022—and in two sizes, because for comparison, two wines were served not only from standard bottles but also from magnums. And as for the taste? It was at this point, if not sooner, that the conversations really got going: some generally prefer wines with the softer Merlot and naturally felt vindicated. Others generally prefer the bold tannins of Cabernet Sauvignon and, of course, felt vindicated as well. In principle, this was a perfect starting point for an argument—but not here, in a place like this: there was something that stood in the way of that principle—because, actually, the other wines didn’t taste all that bad either…


Simple and good: Dinner (Photo: Ulrich van Stipriaan)

Perhaps part of the balance was the dinner, where simplicity was elevated to another level through two tricks: high-quality ingredients on the one hand—and love in the preparation on the other. To go with the fresh sourdough bread cut into rough cubes, there’s a selection in the center of the table—first from the salad section: one with plenty of chanterelles and white beans, one with melon, cucumber, and feta, and one with antipasti vegetables. A trilogy that pays homage to summer yet still pairs perfectly with red wine (which, by the way, was served slightly chilled—the Rothschilds themselves recommend 16 degrees, which shows just how cold the rooms used to be at the château… Round two, featuring ham and cheese, felt more like dinner, but of course the same rule applied here: these were special cheeses, ones with their own distinct flavor and character. And thus they were equal partners to the more mature wines that were poured at the end of the evening…

Gräfe’s Wein & fein
Hauptstraße 19
01445 Radebeul

Tel. +49 351 / 8365540
graefes-weinundfein.de

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Ulrich van Stipriaan
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