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VDP on Tour in Dresden: Nine glasses after the start came the double Henriette

Wine tasting
Monika Drautz: The joy of making and serving wine (Image: Ulrich van Stipriaan)
From: Ulrich van Stipriaan
VDP Gala at Bülow Palais: Ten VDP wineries presented current vintages, surprising Silvaner finds and Grosse Gewächse wines; a gala menu accompanied the tasting; women are increasingly shaping the business.

There are dates in the wine connoisseur community's calendar that cannot be changed - the visit of (this year:) ten VDP wineries with a presentation of their current wines at the end of March is one of them. It's always the same wineries, from A for Adeneuer from the Ahr to W for Wirsching from Franconia. But what the top winegrowers from nine growing regions bring with them is of course always new: wine is, after all, a renewable raw material and one that presents the makers with new challenges every year: too dry, too wet, too cold, too warm - anything goes, it's rarely really right - but winegrowers are, after all, only winegrowers and are therefore at the mercy of nature. And as if that wasn't enough, there are also the sensitivities: there are wars that nobody needs and for some time now there have been massive campaigns against wine because it also contains alcohol. And the campaigners only talk about wine, never about beer or even schnapps.

Winemakers have to live with all this and deal with it somehow. They do it (at least the ones who were there this Saturday) with great joy, a lot of conviction and - to put it bluntly - with great wines. And these are by no means only (although of course also...) the Grosse Gewächse, i.e. the top wines of the respective wineries. "But if you only try those, you're missing out!", I heard more than once: the estate wines are the wineries' calling card - which on the one hand are of course less long-lived and powerful, but on the other hand are fun to drink even at a young age - and at a fraction of the price.

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The range of wines on offer is therefore wide overall - with surprising things like a Silvaner from Wirsching (Franconia) in unusual magnum packaging, namely as a 1.5-liter bag-in-box for €14. Extremely suitable for the fridge and (we tried it ourselves last year) a wonderful Elbwiesen wine. Of course, Wirsching can also make more from the leading French grape variety Silvaner - from the alcohol-free wine 2025 Silvaner Zero "with only 10 g residual sugar", as Georg Grün from the winery reported (I've never had so little residual sugar in dealcoholized wine before!) to the Silvaner sparkling wine extra brut (was in the magnum next to the BiB). And yes, of course there were also GGs, Silvaner from the Julius-Echter-Berg and Riesling from the Iphöfer Kammer.

Eastern Wineries: A Tour of the Finest Wines

The two VDP wineries from the east are always good for a surprise at this event: Björn Probst, estate manager of Schloss Proschwitz, knows about my unfamiliarity with the Goldriesling and immediately handed me a barrel sample of the estate wine (which, for those not quite so familiar with the subject, is the lowest level of the VDP quality scale). I couldn't complain. Alexander Hey from the neighboring Saale-Unstrut region was at the stand - and presented, among other things, two Grosse Gewächse from the shell limestone-dominated Steinmeister (at the foot of which the winery is also located). Sometimes it has to be GG after all 😉

That was three out of ten. How are you supposed to manage them all? Simple trick: specialize. Like the aforementioned "only GG!" drinkers, or only white or only red. Or or or or - there are numerous effective strategies. One delicious one is to go to the gala in the evening, where a menu from the kitchen of the Caroussel Nouvelle is accompanied by two wines for almost every course - plus a sparkling wine to welcome you and only one for dessert, which doesn't want to be compared (who wants to drink against a mature Trockenbeerenauslese?).

Evening gala with food to match the wines

Three key findings from the evening, which are not directly related to the wines, remain. Number one: the cuisine at Bülow Palais, my dining companion told me, made a better impression on her than last year. I could certainly confirm this compliment for Torsten Bubolz and his team - I had already really enjoyed the menu during the recent cooking star lessons. And apart from one or two little things (including the bad habit of pouring the sparkling wine into the glasses before the guests arrive - which turns every sparkling wine into an offended still wine...), it was absolutely impeccable with a personal favorite: the best-of-cooking salmon trout fillet with a dream of foam.

Realization number two: even wines that are wonderful when enjoyed solo win again with food. That sounds like a truism to many, but it's true. Another personal insight was that you shouldn't take such a narrow view, because sometimes even wines that weren't intended to be paired in this way go well. Sure, some things don't work, but there's more that goes together than you might think on the narrow path of narrow-minded thinking. This was written for food and wine, but it certainly doesn't only apply there...

The third insight - but last, but not least, in the Anglo-Saxon sense - is the role of female winemakers in this still male-dominated business (of course there are great female winemakers - in addition to the two who were in Dresden with the VDP, several have already been guests on my podcast or I have been a guest at the winemaker's winery). But when siblings take over their parents' business, the women tend to opt for marketing and the men for vineyard and/or cellar work. Well, at least that! Monika Groebe would probably comment at this point, because "no matter how many wineries there are here and how many men have made this wine: There is always a woman involved!" She is not a winemaker either, my husband Fritz makes the wine - "but I am the second pillar in this winery. And I bring just as much passion and love and everything I have to it. We girls are sometimes far too... - too discouraged!" said Monika Groebe - and she spoke with empathy. Maybe that's what women have over men, to show this side of life and winemaking too... Driving a tractor isn't everything!

And as if further proof of this not-so-bold thesis was needed, Monika Drautz came at the very end. Despite the late hour (it was nine glasses after the start), she managed to bring calm and thoughtfulness (almost something like contemplation, but in the literal sense, which is related to reflection) into the room. "I have brought you two things. A human and a wine, both called Henriette," she began. Henriette, the human, was sitting next to her at the table, she is vintage 2017 and was the impetus for her dad Markus to make a very special wine, he wanted "a wine for his daughter that she can still drink when she is 50 years old", explained Monika Drautz. That would be 2067, but the wine platform wein.plus rated the wine with 95+ points and estimated the age expectancy of the wine to be 2082. "Then this child will be exactly 63 years old!"

Nice prospects - but the "grand dame of the evening" (Robert Kroos from Schloss Proschwitz, who hosted the gala) also found suitable words for the not so tingling ones. By thanking the guests "for appreciating and enjoying our wines and also buying them to take home, because this is of existential importance to us", Monika Drautz made a fundamental connection. "Wine is a cultural asset," she said, "it involves hard and intensive work throughout the year, both in the vineyard and in the cellar. Then you can't say it's just alcohol!" Wine is a product "that we produce with effort, a lot of work and diligence, but also with a great deal of pleasure. That means working in the vineyard, in the cellar, bottling, blending and also having fun selling it."

Menu and wines

  • Reception
    2022 Silvaner Sekt Brut, VDP.Sekt, Weingut Wirsching, Iphofen
  • Tatar of smoked halibut, yellow beetroot, cucumber & horseradish
    2024 Weisser Burgunder Mineral trocken, Weingut Künstler, Hochheim
    2021 Halbstück Riesling trocken, Weingut Knipser, Laumersheim
  • Soufflierte Perlhuhn Brust, Pastinake & Hagebutte
    2024 Fumé vom Spätburgunder, VDP.ERSTE LAGE, Weingut Dr Heger, Ihringen -
    2023 Untertürkheimer Gips, Chardonnay 1G VDP.ERSTE LAGE, Weingut Aldinger, Fellbach
  • Salmon trout fillet, fregola, mango & tomato
    2024 Westhofener Riesling Alte Reben, VDP.AUS ERSTEN LAGEN, Weingut K.F. Groebe, Westhofen
    2023 Riesling GG, VDP.GROSSE LAGE, Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, Meissen
  • Braised veal cheek, brioche cake, almond, leek & cherry
    2020 Pinot No. 1, Weingut J.J. Adeneuer, Ahrweiler
    2022 Steinmeister Pinot Noir GG, VDP.GROSSE LAGE Weingut Hey, Naumburg
  • White chocolate, pomegranate & vanilla
    2017 Jodukus white wine "'Henriette" TBA, HADES,Weingut Drautz-Able, Heilbronn

Bülow Palais/Caroussel Nouvelle
Königstraße 14
01097 Dresden

Tel. +49 351 / 80030
buelow-palais.de

[Visited on March 28, 2026]

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Ulrich van Stipriaan
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Ulrich van Stipriaan

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