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On Human Stupidity

Hollow Plane Tree
A photo taken from inside a very, very old plane tree, looking up… (Photo: Ulrich van Stipriaan)
From: Ulrich van Stipriaan
An ancient plane tree in front of the Agios Nektarios Monastery on Rhodes is hollow inside and accessible. During a visit there, the author witnesses a scene that symbolizes human stupidity.

"Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity," Einstein is said to have once remarked—though he wasn't really sure about the universe. Whether this statement is true or not—or perhaps just a clever invention, as sung by the band Erdmöbel—you can actually see evidence of it just about everywhere on vacation. I found the ultimate confirmation of human stupidity on Rhodes, but the story doesn’t actually start out that stupid.

Plane tree in front of the Agios Nektarios Monastery on Rhodes
Plane tree in front of the Agios Nektarios Monastery on Rhodes (Photo: Ulrich van Stipriaan)

There is, in fact, an old plane tree in front of the Agios Nektarios Monastery. It is so old that experts are at odds over its age based on tree rings. A sign on the tree itself states that this magnificent tree is 1,500 years old. In the generally quite reliable Müller travel guide to Rhodes, author Hans-Peter Siebenhaar adds another thousand to this figure and claims to know that the Apostle Paul himself once stayed “here.” Informants also disagree on the trunk circumference of this Oriental plane tree (Platanus orientalis), with the owner of the Krioneri tavern across the street listing the “circumference at the base” as 12 meters on the signboard, while user Christoph on Monumental Trees lists the “trunk circumference at a height of 1.30 m as more than 5.50 m.” I did not measure it myself, neither at the base nor higher up.

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Inside the plane tree with the 360-degree camera (Photo: Ulrich van Stipriaan)

But the age of this magnificent tree is just one of its attractions. On top of that, this plane tree—with its wonderfully bushy green foliage at the top—is hollow inside. It’s so hollow that you can easily walk right in; the opening is large enough, and the interior certainly is. Why is the plane tree hollow? “The cavity inside is the result of a fire in the past,” reads the sign at the tavern next door. Google’s AI explains it differently: “The plane tree in front of the Agios Nektarios Monastery on Rhodes is hollow due to a natural biological aging process. The hollow space inside the giant tree—which is believed to be over 2,000 years old—was created when the older, inner heartwood (the dead xylem) rotted and was broken down by fungi over the centuries.This natural process is not uncommon in very old trees: Maintaining stability: Trees like the Oriental plane tree store their nutrients and transport water exclusively in the outer, living rings directly beneath the bark (the sapwood).” Either way: it’s cozy in there; there’s a lookout spot facing upward (with a view of the fresh greenery) and holes for peeking out at the surroundings. I had my 360-degree camera with me—which, naturally, distorts everything (thick arms!), but does a pretty good job of showing the comfortable hollow in all its dimensions. And yes, it’s not just visually, as in the picture, that you feel quite small in there…

The minds of some of our fellow human beings also seem to be hollow inside, which brings us to the topic hinted at in the beginning. Because on a second visit to the plane tree, we saw smoke coming from inside. Actually, it wasn’t “it” that was smoking, but “she”—a tourist had chosen this cozy little spot to indulge her nicotine addiction or just kill some time. Her companion (we’d already seen them both at the monastery and recognized them) stood outside in front of the tree, watching disinterestedly. We politely asked him if he might be able to persuade his partner not to smoke in the tree —after all, trees are, in principle, an excellent building material, and forest fires—mostly caused by humans—are a familiar problem on Rhodes—and only a few people actually like that (yes, really, they do exist…). He walked over to her, spoke briefly—and with a shrug, she emerged from her smoke-filled natural shelter. Oh, really—cigarettes can cause fires?!? Well then…

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Ulrich van Stipriaan
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Ulrich van Stipriaan

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