Whisky in the test mine

Research project on flavor formation

Eßlinger reports that scientific research is being carried out into what actually happens to the whisky in the old tunnel. The deposit is located in the TU Freiberg test mine. Two research projects are underway at the university, one on underground microbiology and another on flavor formation.

According to the Federal Association of the German Spirits Industry, whisky is one of the more popular spirits in Germany. In 2024, it accounted for 12.4 percent of the overall market - behind liqueur, vodka and grain, but ahead of drinks such as rum, fruit brandies and gin. Around six million people regularly treat themselves to a glass.

Scotch and bourbon dominate the trade

Whisky "Made in Germany" is an absolute niche. Scotch whisky was sold most frequently in 2024 with 19.3 million bottles, followed by 18.7 million bottles of bourbon or American whiskey and 7.8 million bottles of Irish whiskey. Of "other whisky", which also includes German production, 0.7 million bottles were sold.

The Freiberg-based company is a long way from such large figures - and doesn't even want to get there, as Eßlinger says. The manufactory sells around 1,000 bottles a year. In the old tunnel in the mine, where you can only stand bent over, there is barely enough room for more than 16 barrels.

The Freiberger Manufaktur, like the entire beer, wine and spirits industry, is also noticing that the desire for alcohol in Germany is declining. According to the association, turnover and sales of spirits fell by four and three percent respectively last year. "It's not so easy to say, "We're stepping on the gas a bit"," says Eßlinger.

Instead of focusing on quantity, the Freiberg-based company is working on quality: the first whisky will soon be matured at a depth of 147 meters for five years instead of the previous three.

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